Tamiya Bearing - General ball bearing information

Tamiya Bearings

 

General Tamiya ball bearing information
Information by  http://www.hobbyhot.com/Bearing-Set-for-TAMIYA-Model/
General	Tamiya ball bearing are a popular hop up for those running their RC cars. Tamiya has a way of naming their bearings that is not quite according to industry standard, hence this section.
Bearing material	Ball bearings for RC must be of some kind of Stainless Steel. "Chrome Steel" has the lowest corrosion resistance. "Martensitic Stainless Steel" is a medium choice. "Austenitic Stainless Steel" has the best corrosion resistance.
Retainers	Are the things inside the bearing keeping the balls in place. Different types and material is used.
Closures (shields)	These are important for RC use. The Closure is the shield at both ends of the bearing, protecting the balls inside from dirt, moisture and even impact. Metal shields (named "ZZ") Are shields of metal that does not have contact with the inner ring. Positive for RC is the low friction (none), but metal shields will not seal completely so small particles may enter the bearing. Recommended for on road cars. Contact Shields (named "2RS" , "2" for both sides) May be in a variety of plastic/rubber materials ,usually Nitrile Rubber, but will close the bearing completely, and thus protecting the bearing from moisture. Recommended for off-road bashing. Non Contact Shields (named "2RU", "2" for both sides) Also made of various plastics/rubbers, usually Nitrile Rubber, but does not make contact with the inner ring. Nevertheless it has better protection than the metal sheilds, but not the friction that the Contact Sheilds have Recommended for off-road racing where bearing wear is accepted.

Tamiya Description	Outer Diameter (OD/mm)	Bore (ID/mm)	Width (mm)	Section view
620	6	2	2,5
730	7	3	3
830	8	3	3
840	8	4	3
850	8	5	2,5
1150	11	5	4
1160	11	6	4
1260	12	6	4
1280	12	8	3,5
1510	15	10	4
1680	16	8	5
2617	26	17,5	5

How To: Replace Your Tamiya F104X1 Bearings with Boca Bearings

The F104X1 is Tamiya’s latest and greatest super F1. There has been a few design updates from the F104 Pro that allow you to really dial it in to any track surface. While it does ride on a quality set of shielded ball bearings, installing a high-end set of Boca Bearings will really enhance the performance of the car. There is not only a noticeable increase on the track but is also a very easy install.

For this install we will be using Boca’s Ceramic Lightning Ultra Seal Bearing set, part #55-590C YU. At a retail cost of around $55 that’s not a bad investment for a little extra speed.

You can buy more Tamiya bearing set for Tamiya at hobbyhot.com
http://www.hobbyhot.com/Bearing-Set-for-TAMIYA-Model/

ITEMS NEEDED:

 Standard tools used to maintain your car.

Boca Bearings for the Tamiya F104X1

 STEP 1:

Remove the Tamiya bearings from the plastic pouch. Boca has placed all the bearings into separate bags to make it easier to work with.

Replace the front tire bearings

 STEP 2:

Remove the front tires from the F104X1 and pop the bearings out. They should come out quite easily. Find the bag labeled SMR105C-YUU NB2. These are the replacement bearings for the front wheels. Press them into place and re-install the front wheels. NOTE: There is a small axle spacer that should still be on the axle. If it’s not, check the bearings you removed. Sometimes the spacer will stick to the back of the inner bearing. Make sure you use this…it’s important.

Replace the rear axle bearings

 STEP 3:

Remove the rear axle, pop out the axle height spacers and remove the bearings. Find the bag labeled SMR106C-YUU NB2. There are the replacement rear axle bearings. Press them into the axle height spacers and press that assembly back into the rear pod. Reassemble the entire left side of the axle. There should be an axle spacer that goes between the rear pod and the counterweight. If you don’t see it, check to make sure that it’s not stuck to the bearings you removed.

Replace the differential bearings

 STEP 4:

Disassemble the differential. Replace the thrust bearing with the one in the bag labeled SMR115C-YUU NB2. Replace the inner diff bearing with the one in the bag labeled SMR128C-YUU NB2. You will only be using one of the diff bearings on the F104X1. Reassemble the differential.

The F104X1 includes a bearing supported counterweight on the left side of the rear axle. Because this is a limited edition car there is not a complete matching Boca Bearing kit. You can, however, replace these bearings with a set of the Boca SMR115C-YUU NB2 Thrust Bearings.

Once installed, you may not see a dramatic increase on the bench…yet. The first run should fling a bunch of the grease out of the bearings allowing them to spin for quite a long time. Being a high quality set of bearings, they won’t need much maintenance however, for maximum performance, remove and clean them every couple of races (more often if you race outside on a dusty surface).

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FLYSKY GT-3B Transmitter: Quality vs Performance ratio is totally off the Scale!

Quality vs Performance ratio is totally off the Scale!
When we're holding this GT3B transmitter on hand, we could not believe it just cost USD$60! I mean the feeling is awesome, everything details are just like the other expensive USD$200 models. I'm talking about a real bargain here. For the price you will get a 2.4Ghz Digital LCD Display 3-Channel Transmitter and a 3 Channel 2.4Ghz Receiver. If you're a RC car players, you can tell it's a well made product, the weight distribution is just right, making it very comfortable to hold, the back-lid screen is huge, so you can enjoy your RC car at night, besides, the Cool Blue LCD is just awesome! All function menus are controlled by the Multi-Functional Dial, just roll and press, very user friendly. Not to mention the basic function like Servo Reverse, End Point, Dual Rate and ABS control...... Helipal recommend this product, grab it and show off to your buddy's today! Please remember to tell them, it is just USD$60!

Where to buy Flysky GT-3B?
HobbyHot.com - worldwide shipment!
http://www.hobbyhot.com/Fly-Sky-FS-GT3B-3ch-2.4GHz-LCD-Transmitter-Receiver.html 





100% Professional Appearance
 Shaped to fit your left hand, great weight distribution for maximum conformability







Cool LCD Display with back light
 Clear English letters and menus, easy to access. And even more, it is back-lid!











Anti-Interference & Higher Reliability
2.4GHz is the standard of new generation radio system because it has a lot of advantages. Operating at 2.4 GHz puts the radio control out of the frequency range of any 'noise' generated by the other electronic components on your helicopter - such as the brushless motor, Electronic speed controller, Servos and any metal to metal noise - eliminating interference and glitching that can affect traditional frequency system.





Key Features
- Model Memory
- Servos NOR/REV
- Steering Trim
- Throttle Trim
- Dual Rate
- End Point
- ABS Settings
- EXP Settings
- Trainer Port (for VRC)
- CE & FCC certified

Specification
- Channels : 3 Channels
- Model type : car/boat
- RF range : 2.40-2.48GHz
- Bandwidth : 500Hz
- Band : 160
- RF power : less than 20DB
- 2.4G system : AFHDS
- Code type : GFSK
- Sensitivity : 1024
- Low voltage warning : yes(less than 9V)
- DSC por t: yes(3.5mm:outputPM)
- ST range : 90
- TH range : 45(F:30;B:15)
- Charger port : yes
- Power : 12V DC(1.5AA*
- Weight : 328g
- ANT length : 26mm
- Size : 159 x 99 x 315mm
- Color : black
- Certificate : CE,FCC

Includes :
- 1 x 2.4Ghz transmitter
- 1 x 2.4Ghz Receiver
- 1 x Bind Plug
- 1 X Manual File in a CD
Where to buy Flysky GT-3B?
HobbyHot.com - worldwide shipment!
http://www.hobbyhot.com/Fly-Sky-FS-GT3B-3ch-2.4GHz-LCD-Transmitter-Receiver.html

Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO Sensored ESC (BU) For Short Course Truck

Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO Sensored ESC (BU) For Short Course Truck

Hobbywing launched a new Xerun SCT Pro for short course truck,Yeah!

This is the Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO Sensored ESC (BU) For Short Course Truck

For 1/10, 1/8 Short Course Truck and Buggy

Sensored ESC has the best control feeling

The built-in switching mode BEC has a powerful output to supply all electronic equipments even with 4S Lipo input

Excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity features

With 3 running modes: Racing mode (Forward), Forward/Backward mode and Rock Crawler mode

With 4 steps of maximum reverse force adjustment

Compatible with mechanical disc-brake system

With 9 start modes (Also called "Punch" ) from "Soft" to "Very aggressive" to suitable for different tracks

Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection for lithium or nickel battery / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection / Motor blocked protection

With 8 steps of timing adjustment to get the best compatibility with various of motors

Easily program with only one button and compatible with pocket-sized LED Program Card and the Advanced LCD Program Box

ESC firmware updatable via an USB adapter on the Advanced LCD Program Box

The major electronic components are sealed against splashing water and dust

Output: Continuous current 120A, burst current 760A

Input: 6-12 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2-4S Lipo

BEC Output: 6V/3A (Switching mode)

Resistance: 0.0004 Ohm

Motor Supported: Sensored and sensorless brushless motor

Suitable Brushless Motor:

With 6 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2S Lipo: KV≤6000

With 7-9 cells NiMH/NiCd or 3S Lipo: KV≤4000

With 10-12 cells NiMH/NiCd or 4S Lipo: KV≤3000

Suitable Car: 1/10th and 1/8th scale short course truck / buggy / monster

Size: 53.5mm(L) * 36mm(W) * 36mm(H)

Note1: The cooling fan is powered by the built-in BEC of 6V

Hobbywing XERUN SCT PRO Sensored ESC (BU) For Short Course Truck(1pc)

12AWG Wire (3 Pcs)

Sensor Wire (1 Pc)

ESC Mount (1 Pc)

Connector (3 Pcs)

Instruction Manual

LCD Program Box

DAILY MAINTENANCE of your RC Model
Buy more RC Model Toy at www.hobbyhot.com

I To keep your car at optimum performance, daily maintenance is important. This will also help discover any hidden problem areas. Without this daily care, your car’s performance can deteriorate rapidly. Keep it in the best possible condition at all times.

1. MAINTEIY GE OF R/C UNITS
Your radio control receiver, transmitter, servos and amplifier boosted speed control are precision electronic instruments. Clean these components after use, especially the connector sockets on the receiver, as they collect dust. Remove plugs and clean the sockets using a soft bristled brush.
*If a malfunction occurs with your radio, do not attempt to dismantle and repair by yourself. No user-serviceable parts are inside. Send to the manufacturer or service station for repair.



IF THE RECEIVER ANTEN- M NA CABLE BREAKS
If the antenna breaks at its base, do not dismantle the receiver. Send it to the manufacturer for repair. If the insulation is worn, cover the bare wire using vinyl tape. If left uncovered, accidental contact with metal parts will cause radio interference and loss of control of the model.



2. MAINTENANCE OF ELECTRIC COMPONENTS
Electrical components play a vital role in models, whether battery powered or glow engined. Make sure to check them prior to and after each use.

ELECTRIC CABLES
Electrical wire/cables can withstand some degree of stretch; however, if excessively pulled, they can break or become detached from a solder joint. Insulation will wear off if rubbed against the ground or a car’s rotating part while running. Special attention should be paid to motor/battery cables on Ni-Cd battery powered models, due to the enormous amount of current that flows in these circuits. Any short circuit can cause a fire or serious burns.



CONNECTORS
Connectors can become loose and develop bad contact following repeated use. Crimp the tubular contact points using the tip of a screwdriver to maintain firm contact in the
plug.



MECHANICAL SPEED CONTROL
A mechanical speed control passes large currents and its metal contacts repeatedly rub against each other during operation. Metal wears more rapidly than you expect, and this causes poor electrical contact, scorching of points, and sparking. Scorched contact points can be cleaned using fine abrasive paper, but if badly worn, the entire speed control unit should be replaced. Keep and sand away from metal contacts, and periodically apply switch lubricant for smooth movement and good contact.



3. MAINTENANCE OF ELECTRIC MOTORS
The electric motor is the vital component in electrically powered models, and it will wear out following extended use. Keep in mind that stiff meshing gears, hindrance of wheel/shaft rotation and running the model in grass or dry sand imposes great stress on the motor and can result in motor burn out.

REPLACING BRUSHES AND ROTORS
A major reason for reduced motor performance is worn brushes and/or damaged commutator. High performance motors can be disassembled for cleaning, and new brushes and rotors are available for replacement. In these cases, motor performance can be restored to like new.



NOISE SUPPRESSING CONDENSERS
Electric motors generate electromagnetic noise during operation, so electric motors are equipped with noise suppressing condensers to filter out this noise. A standard 540 size motor houses its condenser inside the case so there is little possibility it will come off; however, some high performance motors have their condenser attached outside on the end bell. Check that it is firmly attached and re-solder if necessary.



4. MAINTENANCE OF CHASSIS COMPONENTS
Properly assembled and operating chassis mechanics are the basis for optimum performance of an car. Keep your car in peak condition by constantly inspecting and maintaining it.

1. LOOSENED OR DAMAGED SCREWS & NUTSScrews and nuts can become loosened from vibration while running. They can even become bent and distorted from a collision. Tighten screws and nuts and replace those that are bent, cracked or damaged. Stripped screws and nuts must also be replaced.
2. GEARS AND JOINTSEven durable plastic or metal, gears and joints are subject to wear because they are always in motion during use. Proper lubrication reduces friction, and helps prolong the life of these parts. If gears are exposed, foreign objects such as sand and debris get between the teeth, damaging the gears. Check and replace any damaged or worn gears grid joints immediately.

3. BENT SHAFTS
Shafts can become bent following a collision. Even a slight bend in an axle or propeller shaft can cause vibration and unstableness of the car. Periodically remove them from the car to check if they are straight. Bends can be found by rolling the shaft slowly along a flat surface.


4. DAMAGED OR DISTORTED FRAME/CHASSIS
The frame/chassis is the backbone of your car, and made to withstand extreme stress. However, it can become damaged or distorted following repeated hard collisions. Check for any distortion by placing the model on a flat surface and gradually raising it from the surface. If a wheel on either side leaves the surface sooner than the other, chassis deformation or an incorrect suspension setting can be suspected. A slight distortion can be corrected by twisting the chassis in the opposite direction, but it is best to replace it with a new one as soon as possible. Check screw holes on the frame/chassis for cracks or damage.



5 & 6. SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
Suspension arms and pivots are subject to damage during collisions. Check and replace deformed arms, bent shafts, etc. Lubricate all suspension pivot points for smooth operation.

7. STEERING LINKAGE
Because a steering servo saver is constantly receiving external shocks from direct contact with the steering mechanics, it will gradually deteriorate with prolonged use. Plastic ball sockets used at tie-rod ends can become loose after repeated attachment and removal. Periodic replacement of these parts will be required. In due course, replace any damaged components.

8. CHECKING DRIVE BELTDrive belt tension has to be checked periodically. Drive belt can be easily adjusted by changing pulley position. In addition, change it when damaged and clean it if it becomes dirty.
BODY REPAIRS
Even a slightly damaged or cracked body shell will worsen beyond repair due to running vibrations. Styrene bodies can be repaired using plastic cement or instant glues (Cyanoacrylates). Apply sheet styrene from the inside for reinforcement. Polycarbonate (Lexan) body shells cannot be repaired with cements, so use cloth tape or fiberglass reinforced tape for repairs. Polycarbonate sheet, cut from a body shell can be used as reinforcement under the cloth tape.


LONG TERM STORAGE
Remove all batteries from model. If the car is to be stored for an extended period, remove the wheels, or put the model on a stand with the wheels clear of the ground. This prevents the tires from deforming.







Copyright from TAMIYA RADIO CONTROL GUIDE BOOK 2005